Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico - Carnival, Feb. 2010. Installment 2

Feb. 12, 2010

Mike:
     2/12 Angela sleeping in. Up at 8, shower, dress, e-mails, & journal. A beautiful morning in Mexico - I could live like this!!! Angela up at 9:30 - to breakfast at 10. Breakfast very good - smoked marlin in flour tortilla - deep fried, eggs with ham, Mexican cheesy potatoes, Pork (I think) stew in red sauce - stew is excellent, except the part that winds up on the front of my shirt - that part of the stew is a jerk!

Angela:
     2-12 Friday. Up about 9:30. Mike up before me being productive and doing useful stuff. Down to breakfast. Mike raves about it, but I guess I'm just too American. I'd just as soon have something bready and maybe a hot drink or milk. Most of the food seems more like dinner than breakfast. The fried-tortilla-fish-thing is yummy though. Yama! They also have pancakes and fruit, so I guess I'm set. Nice to sit by the pool for breakfast.

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     Back to room to wash stain from shirt, then a walk to Avenida Del Mar (Malecón) - Taking the back street with less hustle bustle, more upscale shopping - definitely all tourist zone. A stop on the playa (beach) for a break yields fish fillets breaded and fried rather than smoked marlin empanadas as hoped. Ah, the language barrier! Fish is good though, but I didn't order because of hunger and we pick it over pretty well without actually tuckering in for a meal. Glad I only ordered one to share.

MalecónAngela:
     After breakfast we walk, and walk, and walk. It's interesting and I'm happy, but I do question my choice of shoes once or twice. (Thin, flat sandals with no arch support or cushiony protection, comfortable - almost like walking barefoot, but after miles of pavement my feet feel pounded flat.) We walk all the way from the hotel up the Malecón, which is the sea wall/main street; then over to the cathedral. I love all the interesting box-buildings everywhere. For the most part the only really big buildings are the hotels/time-shares, and there are some majorly huge houses up on the hills overlooking the city and ocean; the rest are mostly one to two story building block type buildings, many brightly painted. The Malecón is lovely, a beach beneath and a nice wide sidewalk to walk on. Of course it is a super-busy street too, but after a little bit you just get used to all the noise here: cars, people, honking, live musicians, recorded music pouring from buildings and vehicles. It's just noisy here; it gives the place a feeling of excitement and vibrancy. We're accosted time and time again by timeshare salesmen. It appears to be one of the major occupations here; there is usually one or more every half a block or so in the Zona Dorada. They are quite persistent, but the whole trip I only came across one that was actually rude. The neighborhood around the cathedral is amazingly interesting. Tons of little box buildings; hugely varied in upkeep, from roofless and falling down to perfect with spiffy new paint jobs. Undulating curbs, some waist high to the street are aesthetically pleasing and make walking a challenge. I want to stop and take pictures, but Mike is nervous and I am shy.

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     7pm - 1st full day in Mazatlan. It appears that carnival is a Mexican party, at the party last night it was mainly locals. Today it appears that for tourists there is no real difference versus any other week, but tomorrow could tell a different story. The Carnival crowd may be flying in tomorrow, we shall see. Today was all walking. We left the hotel and walked clear down to the cathedral - about 8 miles I would guess. We had a great day. Took a pulmonia back from the cathedral, now showers, then dinner - maybe Italian, or Spanish, or let me think - oh yeah, Mexican! All I know is it won't be Gus Y Gus, Dominos Pizza, Applebee’s, Dairy Queen, El Pollo Loco, McDonalds or Burger King; all of which are within walking distance. I need to walk to the bank, about 2 blocks and to dinner, probably across the street, and my legs/feet are so tired that I'm slow to get going... on second thought maybe all of those restaurants are beyond walking distance tonight! Now to find people speaking English on the TV.... but not Oprah.
Cathedral, exterior
Angela:
     The cathedral is beautiful. It has a different sort of vibe to it than European ones. It is newer than most European ones, having been completed in 1899, and is constructed of poured concrete. The concrete is painted to look stone-like but its lack of real texture gives it a "clean" look. The cathedral is lovely and peaceful, though there are plenty of people there. No apparent tourists other than us, everybody is praying. We sit and look quietly and take our photographs unobtrusively so as to not disturb the worshipers. The clerestory windows are glazed with red, green, and white to cast a patriotic light throughout the church. The main altar is a radiant Christ, heart exposed. It is lovely. Three men surrounded by glowing blue are painted above it on the ceiling. Possibly the godhead - do they portray the godhead as three men in Catholicism? There is a side chapel on either side - Madonna & Child on the left, Mary? on the right. I follow the Stations of the Cross out of order and realize I don't know the story as well as I would have thought I did. I notice the confessionals. They are not very private. There is a main cubby with a comfortable straight back chair facing out in the center, saloon-type swinging doors cover the face area, but the body is left exposed. On either side of the priestly seat is a grate and then a kneeling place with no privacy for the confessee. No priests around. My favorite part is all the saints of various sizes and materials that surround the walls and pillars. I didn't recognize any of them. Some are small and down at table height in glass cubicles. One has little gold charms pinned all over it and money in its box. Most have a money box for donations. (I later find out that the golden charms each represent a miracle that the saint has performed, that was a very accomplished saint.) Near the main entrance at the back is another side chapel, with another of the many incarnations of Mary (or maybe another female saint?). We give this possible Mary some money and I say a prayer but don't light a candle because there are only electric candles to light with the flip of a switch and that as a symbol doesn't connect for me.
Saints
Pulmonia rideMike:
     Dinner at El Parador, Espanol, tapas with shrimp, sausage, cheese, prosciutto. Bread a little too buttery, but good. Damn the diet - I love butter! A nice chardonnay from Chile called Rumbo Sur (2008) and cherries flambé for desert - Damn the landlord - I love cherries flambé. Life is Grand! The timeshare guy at the door spent a long time visiting with a guy with 90s long hair, cargo capri pants, a denim jacket, and a snake around his neck. A blast from the past, I'm just not sure what past it is - late 80s, mid 90s or early 2000s. He is certainly a collection of styles.

Angela:
     In the evening we head back to the hotel, and after refreshing showers, we head out for tapas at the Spanish restaurant across the street. We sit on the balcony and we chat a little bit with the host who wants us to go to a timeshare presentation and lies that he has only been in Mazatlan three weeks, when Mike clearly remembers him from last year. Friendly, nice guy anyway and an enjoyable evening of finger food with extremely crunchy bread. Pleasant people and traffic watching, especially notable a young granola-type man with shaggy hair and a pale orange snake around his neck. Snake-guy and timeshare-host stand on the sidewalk and chat for quite a while; somehow I don't see the snake at a timeshare presentation. Most of the evening we are the only customers there, but later two couples arrive and eat in the indoor dining room, so we still have the balcony to ourselves.










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Touristy Side Street - Zona Dorada

Tourist District
Mike is patient while I browse the touristy-shops
Sea Shell City

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Avenida Del Mar (Malecón)
Mazatlan buildings and a blue sky

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Family

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Stop for a cool drink

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Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

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Cathedral, interior
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On the Mazalteco Streets

I Ride with the Reaper!-------------------------------Cute Bimbo Bear! 
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I ride with the Grim Reaper!Mazatlan Apartments/Condos


Musicians Walking

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Photos hosted on Flickr

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Mazatlan, Sinaloa, Mexico - Carnival, Feb. 2010. Installment 1

Angela:
     Early in February, I said to Mike, "My sister's birthday is coming up, maybe I'll go visit her in Kentucky again, like last year." An excited expression ran across his face and he replied, oh so casually, "Oh ok, well then maybe I'll take a trip to Mazatlan, again." I pushed down a little bit of jealousy and replied, "Ok."

     You see, last year I decided to go spend several days with my sister around her birthday, February 12. Mike decided there was no use in him hanging around the house alone on a holiday weekend (President's Day), and he thought he needed a break from winter so he decided to take a trip to somewhere warm. He convinced our friend, Jeremy, to go with him and their thoughts turned to Mexico. Puerto Vallarta, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan... Mazatlan won out because it was cheapest, closest, and easiest to get to. When I phoned from Kentucky last year to hear Mike was headed to Mazatlan, Mexico, I was a bit jealous. But I was having a fun trip and I was happy he was getting to go somewhere too. They spent a few days in Mazatlan and loved it.

     Jeremy agreed to go back to Mazatlan this year, and Mike realized that the timeframe in question was Carnaval. Last year when Mike went to Mazatlan it was just after Carnaval and he had wished he hadn’t missed it. It seemed like a sign that the trip was meant to be. Then Jeremy backed out, opting for fiscal responsibility. Mike was still determined to go, so sorry Nikki… Mazatlan here I come! I just couldn’t pass up the opportunity. And soon we were on our way!

Feb. 11, 2010
Trail to the sun
Mike:
     2/11 Early departure – 6:10am flight but must go to counter. Up at 2:09 after I snooze. Shower / fold shirts / finish packing on road at 3:25am. Learning coffee at airport closed, 2.5 days no smoking and now no coffee – What am I to do? At airport 20 minute wait to check in. Go to McDonald’s for Egg McMuffins, hash browns and orange juice for Angela and a giant unsweetened iced coffee for me. Bad food/bad coffee – the perfect airport meal. Got seats in first class. Flight attendant – nice, like a little troll with a big smile. Relax with frappuccino while plane loads, coke & Robert Earl Keen/Tom Waits on flight. Relax and settle in for the ride to Phoenix.
Angela:
Nearing Mazatlan     2-11 We left our house pre-dawn for a sunrise flight to Phoenix connecting to Mazatlan. First Class all the way baby! Working for the airlines does have its rewards. Ticket counter opened at 4:30, we arrive at 4. After that the flights go smooth, no worries. Mike let me have the window both legs and I enjoy watching the sunrise from above the clouds and snapping aerial photos. Between photos, I start reading The Time Traveler’s Wife by Audrey Niffenegger. Enjoying it despite the creep factor of the 6 year old girl with the middle-aged man. Listen to Andrés Segovia, nice. Struck, once again, by the enormity of Phoenix and its suburbs. Rows and rows of little houses, neatly arranged in curves and geometric patterns. Over Mexico, I think, – so many mountains. Rows and rows of mountains with snaking brown roads leading to little reflecting towns. Nearer to Mazatlan the land gets flatter, less wild, more agricultural. I don’t see the ocean before we land. I wonder vaguely where Mazatlan is. Mike points at a smokestack in the distance, “That way.”

Mike:
     Phoenix Airport quick/easy – another 1st class upgrade – on plane, Bloody Mary before takeoff, frappuccino and Bailey’s with Big Lebowski in flight – not a White Russian, but damn good! Mexico paperwork in flight – hoping for green light when going through customs. After A.M. flail in security anything is possible – caught sneaking too many liquids through and new belt set off alarm – amateur! Take the damn bus next time!
Aeropuerto Internacional De Mazatlan     Now if I can only get another Frap/Bailey’s. Friggin’ attendant hitting on some Mexican dude – Bring me my $20 in booze wench! Ah, Vacation!
Angela:
     First off the plane means first through immigration and customs, green light at customs means we are free to enter Mexico, without having our bags rifled. Yay! The time-share salesmen grab Mike in the guise of taxi negotiators, but Mike knows better and we don’t become obligated to spend the day listening to their sales pitch.
Mike:
     Awesome!!- Timeshare scam at airport - I win – I know the booth to buy cab fare. So fun to see disappointment at my knowledge of the process. Cab from airport as expected – Robot Driver – is he breathing??? He must be – did you see the way he dodged that bus? Mexico, I can tell I’m here because it SMELLS like Mexico – What is that smell??? I want to say I like it, but I’m afraid it might be something gross, so I won’t. Really I don’t care what it is – I love how relaxed I feel in Mexico – and that smell takes me there instantly. Robot man got us right to the front door; in fact he almost backed up right through the front door – worth the 30 Peso tip!! Checked in – got 3rd floor front of building – nothing higher available! And that for a friggin’ platinum member of the frequent sleeper club – this must be the 3rd world! Room ok – until Angela spots that we have a 2nd small balcony facing the street – Wait, is this thing designed to hold people or is it just for décor? It didn’t fall off– Hooray! The street life is so fun, almost better than the ocean view – I have an idea – a room that stretches from the front to the back – nothing missed that way – except a lot of $$$.
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Angela:
     We drive through the countryside to Mazatlan. A couple smaller towns/suburbs? On the way, mostly fields and odd little rectangular buildings, some painted beautiful bright colors, others are of unpainted concrete. We see some farm animals in pens. Mazatlan is busy-busy. The main road has lots of traffic. Traffic rules seem to be more of a suggestion than law. The taxi weaves around busses, trucks, and other vehicles at crazy speeds. We arrive at the hotel around one-ish (not bad, eh?). We like the room, one balcony with seating, a partial ocean view and partial street view; then a second tiny balcony facing the street. Even though I’m really tired from such an early start I don’t feel like napping. We check out the lobby, pool area, and bar overlooking the beach. Then take a walk on the beach northward. Mike says that direction is less interesting on the street, but that the Cuban place he wants to eat at is that way. The beach is beautiful, many pelicans and seagulls are flying overhead; we watch an amphibious vehicle take to the sea; people play bocce, a group of musicians walk ahead of us; a streamlet flows from the concrete wall to the ocean. Eventually, we cut back out to the road and head south toward the hotel, looking for the Cuban place. We’ve almost given up on it when voilà – there it is – Carlos & Lucia’s. Marty the very friendly host/waiter seats us. Great food – especially fried plantains- yum!! Have dessert because Marty insists he has something special. Flambéed bananas with ice cream and chocolate sauce. It’s good, but really just the fried plantains are better. I could eat them forever!


Mike:
     Walk on beach – search for a little Cuban food place – can’t find – Oh, wait there it is – Cuban asado, Cuban shrimp (garlic, onion, bell pepper) Food Awesome! Drinks as big as my head – hottest girl in the world – it’s perfect! Good-Great – someone needs to carry me to the hotel – how many pesos would that cost? NOTE: Angela loves congri & fried plantains – keep her away from them if you’re not a chubby chaser!
     After dinner walk back to hotel – Massive military (20-30) presence outside bank with auto weapons and hummers. Walked right through middle – didn’t get shot or arrested – cool.
Military Presence


Tourist Transport in MazatlanAngela:
     Later we catch a pulmonia ride to Olas Altos (Old Town) to check out the coronation of the “King of Joy.” The King of Joy's mini-parade had passed us earlier while we were still walking along the main street. Someone sending up fireworks; a few cars blasting conflicting music with pretty scantily clad women and a chicken-man holding on and dancing at the same time; and the main attraction a large flat-bed truck full of young men in jester-type outfits, one singled out - must be the King of Joy, himself, and young women in colorful flowing costumes throwing confetti & dancing. When we got in the pulmonia Mike asked him to take us to the "King of Joy" celebrations and after zipping in and out of side-streets around copious amounts of traffic we had caught up with the parade. Mike films from the pulmonia; the pretty dancers wave, the chicken dances provocatively, and the King hams it up for us. The parade comes to its halt and so do we. Thanking the driver, we follow the colorfully dressed people up to bright neon-gates and huge crowds. Mike separates from me to film and a scary lady federale (police) grabs me from behind and motions she wants to search my purse. I open it for her, there isn't much inside and she motions me away. Unsettled, I notice that no one else is getting searched, I guess gringos are just suspicious here. I note that Mike and I are the only gringos in sight, actually. Oh well, no harm in the end, so I let go of it and move on into the crowd. And what a crowd it is, so many people. We eventually find a stage, and watch many Mexican bands. The bands in Mazatlan either have an accordion and some stringed instruments (usually including guitar & bass) and a snare drum, or a plethora of horns and drums. There seem to be no female singers, except one children's singing group, consisting of three girls and a boy singing pop style songs with choreographed dancing. One band has a singer whose costume includes an oversized cowboy-style pistol & holster which he swings around suggestively to huge laughs from the crowd. The friendly man standing next to us makes sure to point it out, several times. A bunch of beauty queens each topped with a very tall sparkly crown march across the stage. It's fun, but after a while it seems pretty repetitive and eventually we are too tired to really care that they may never get to the coronation itself. We head back to the hotel exhausted.

Mike:
     Went to King Coronation - 1st Pulmonia ride - price double last year - Carnival! Followed/caught small parade. Ceremony = lots of horns, a band with a lead singer with a BIG GUN - "Did you see his big gun???" We left before actual coronation - who knows how long it would take - we got tired and left.
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On the Beach - Zona Dorada

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On the Street - Zona Dorada
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Carlos & Lucia's - Zona Dorada
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Coronation of the King of Joy - Olas Altos

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The King's Entourage
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A lighted gate welcomes us to Carnaval
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The King of Joy passes by
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Bands perform on stage in front of the symbol of Mazatlan, a deer.
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Dead Mermaids drink Pacifico and will shoot you with their rifle if you don't! (at least that is what I got out of this advertisement for Pacifico Beer, a sponsor of the Caranaval celebrations.)
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Next Day

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